As the name implies, this is a simple Italian restaurant: a handful of recycled wood tables, waiters in street clothes, pour-your-own wine. Even the menu is just half a page long. The food, on the other hand, is so inventive and complex that there is usually a line out the door. The handmade pork ravioli are popular, and the pizza, baked for just two minutes in an 800-degree wood oven, is the best in the city. The chef also teaches classes, which include dinner and wine.