The motto of many of today’s chefs seems to be: “Why do things simply, when they can be complicated?” Jody Williams and Rita Sodi feel otherwise—they offer traditional, no-frills Italian dishes (whose simplicity only makes them more aromatic). The rotating menu offers dishes like grilled artichokes with aioli, pasta with boar ragout, or fried rabbit with rosemary and garlic. Reservations aren’t accepted—first come, first taste.