Unconventional chef April Bloomfield runs the John Dory by her own rules: No reservations are accepted—unless you are a guest of the hotel Ace, where the restaurant is located. The kitchen is open from noon until 2 am, oyster happy hour is from 5 pm until 7 pm. The food comes with intense flavors—when Bloomfield prepares it herself, even small and simple dishes taste larger than life, according to gourmets.