This modern Japanese brasserie is an offshoot of the restaurant of the same name opened in Brooklyn in 2006. The operators want to take guests on a journey to Tokyo—and to challenge their taste buds. Because instead of sushi, here they serve grilled cod in miso marinade or pork belly with soft-boiled egg. The dishes are all made for sharing and served with first-rate sake. One dines in small booths; anyone who wants complete privacy can simply roll down the bamboo blind.