Tucked in among the casinos and kebab joints around the train station is the wonderful Café Kosmos. On the whole it’s not very “Munich-y,” and not just because they serve beer from Hamburg (at a price that is more than fair). The spiral staircase and one-of-a-kind Vodkarella are trademarks of the establishment, which is always bursting at the seams. Regulars include suits, students, and anyone who doesn’t mind involuntary body contact.