Sometimes what you need is a proper cup of coffee, a croissant, a small caramelized canelé, or a sandwich that you can really sink your teeth into. Or a slice of bread from a proper crusty loaf. Baker & Spice is not the city’s only bakery, nor is it the first, but its five cafés draw a crowd, thanks to their smart and simple concept. On Anfu Road, you drink your coffee perched on a stool at a long wooden table, from where you can either check out what’s happening out on the street or watch the bakers at work in the glass-fronted kitchen behind the counter.