Many complain that São Paulo has no real center. The impressively wide Avenida proves that’s not true. This is the heart of the largest city in the southern hemisphere, a landmark where things happen. Once a street of magnificent mansions belonging to coffee barons, the architecture-crazy Paulistas tore them down and replaced them with skyscrapers that became the largest business center in Latin America. The red-light district has also established itself here, amid the anonymity.