Local before arrival
Even in his new home, he cultivates italianità: In Rome-native Daniele Pagliei’s restaurant, the tables are close together, and the menu is only in Italian and written in wildly ornate script. The chef and host lords temperamentally over his kitchen, giving his dishes a truly personal touch that may sometimes make purist-inclined Italy connoisseurs howl. The tagliatelle all’amatriciana, for example, contain not just bacon but gamberi. Delicious!
