Italian food just like mama used to make; that is, if she cooked as well Andrew Carmellini and went into partnership with Robert De Niro to open a Tribeca restaurant. This cheerfully noisy eatery features Italian staples such as sheep milk ricotta cheese and pasta with sausage. There’s a fair amount of improvising on classics, such as the hazelnut French toast to cite one popular example. Wait times can be long and space between the tables tight—both testimony to its popularity, so plan ahead and be prepared for a bustling vibe. The dishes are casually stylish and surprisingly affordable.