The kinetic vibe here is pure dim sum: servers wheel past, hawking bite-size offerings, while diners pluck whatever strikes their fancy. Everyone experiments, including chefs Brioza and Krasinski, who dish up oddities like sauerkraut pancakes that are just as good as favorites like pork ribs over chard, or the namesake crispy quail. Reservations can be difficult, but standing bar side is an excellent option—the best way to watch and appreciate the kitchen’s furious alchemy.