Claudia Lahm may be a native of Düsseldorf, but her restaurant recreates a lovely piece of Paris in the Glockenbach Quarter. Along with the red, white, and blue napkin rings on the tables for two and the striped shirts worn by the waiters, the menu is all about fine Parisian cuisine: red mullet fillets with pesto, rack of lamb with thyme-scented gravy, duck liver and coq au vin. The generous portion sizes, however, are not the least bit French.