This is what a Thai woman’s version of a French bistro looks like. A Breton would probably faint, a designer smile. Instead of a plethora of bottles, the lit vitrines display only a few brands. The quiche is elegant, and the so-called sandwiches are favorites of even the staff. One reason is the delicious baguette, which the aforementioned Breton would also love. Chef Agathe’s favorite: the saucisson beurre—salami on small cucumbers...