Before he wrote his bestsellers, Hemingway ate at these small tables covered in white tablecloths. If you are looking for classic Parisian cuisine at a reasonable price, look no further than this erstwhile coal merchant’s house near the Bastille. Escargots, foie gras, steak au poivre, and calf’s head in aspic are all on the menu. The cream brulée is delicious, served with a smoldering, caramelized top and the coffee that follows could wake the dead.