Since 1978, this wine bar has been serving homemade dishes that will take you on a delicious international tour—from France to Italy, Germany and Austria. This former artists’ hangout begins to fill up at 7:00 p.m., when the kitchen opens. To get a seat at one of the overcrowded tables with their white tablecloths, you must wait at the bar with its hospitable atmosphere and sociable patrons whose conversation goes far beyond a cursory greeting.