In case you’ve never had a Russian grandmother, this is what a visit to her house wouldhave felt like. And yes, Pasternak does provide a cherry strudel like grandma used to make, familiarly known as “fluden.” But only if there's room after you’ve already had the “Proletariat” plate (naturally, with a double vodka), a bowl of borscht, and Jewish latkes. The restaurant is named after Boris Pasternak, the author of “Doctor Zhivago” (1957), who was celebrated internationally but fell out of grace in Russia.