It just depends on your point of view: Does Oscar Niemeyer’s masterpiece of an art museum overlook Rio, or does the city gaze mesmerized by this chalice, this flower, or—something contemptuous— this flying saucer? This architectural hit and landmark for Brazilian art is the result of Niemeyer, Niteroi’s mayor, and a great art collector’s collaboration. Just hop on a ferry from Praça XV, and carry on with a bus or by taxi. Even the way here is worth it.